Domaine Belargus

  • Anjou, Loire, France
Domaine Belargus
  • This is one of the most spectacular new entries in the history of The Wine Advocate, and it makes the Loire, especially its tributary, Layon, one of the most fascinating terroirs in the Anjou region. Domaine Belargus is the name that should soon populate the world’s finest wine lists, especially since the prices are—still?—affordable."

    —Stephan Reinhardt

Belargus was birthed out of the wine estate of Jo Pithon, a legend in the Anjou, but reinvigorated by a man named Ivan Massonat who also owns part of Philippe Pacalet in Burgundy.  When Ivan purchased the estate, he set about to create a crack team to produce a stable of virtual Grand Cru wines in the Anjou.

The property is built around the most spectacular parcel of vines I’ve ever seen in the Loire, the famous Les Treilles hillside, a sort of Côte Rotie of the Loire, planted entirely to Chenin Blanc. In addition to the parcels already part of the former domaine, Ivan purchased a small parcel in Savennières, 1/3 of the Grand Cru of Quart de Chaume! (which they are mostly vinifying dry), and additional parcels adjacent to the famous monopole of Les Treilles.  The entire property is farmed biodynamically.  The property is 100% Chenin Blanc, with the vast majority vinified dry, even when coming from the Grand Cru of Quarts de Chaume. Here is a breakdown of the domaine’s parcels and the team behind it, by Jon David Headrick:

 

 

THE TERROIRS:
Les Treilles – A monopole of almost 10 hectares on extremely steep slopes, some as steep as 70 degrees.  The vines are planted on a combination of very old calcaire (much older than that found in the rest of the Loire) and schist.  It produces wines of extremely long aging and finish.

Bonnes Blanches – One of the most famous parcels in the Anjou owned by growers such as Pierre-Bise, Ogereau, Mosse, and others.  This is historically made into sweet wine, but Belargus vinifies it dry.

Quart de Chaume Grand Cru – Belargus own 10 hectares of this Grand Cru and vinifies it mostly into one of their top dry wines.  Stunning parcel, stunning wines.  This is separated into three separate parcels by exposition and soil type into four wines.

Ruchères in Savennières – This is at the bottom of Roches-aux-Moines, looking out over the Loire river.

 


THE TEAM:
Adrien Moreau – Winemaker.  Formerly at Cheval Blanc, Haut-Brion, Roederer.

Jo Pithon – Jo, the former owner of the estate, is now part of the team and is the resident historian of the various parcels farmed by Belargus.  Jo singlehandedly converted the monopole of Les Treilles from scrub bush to terraced vineyards.  It is the most stunning piece of land I’ve ever seen in the Loire outside of the possible exception of La Coulée de Serrant.

 

The estate is composed of 24 hectares farmed at extremely low yields (an average of 25 hl/ha instead of the normal 60 hl/ha.). The meticulous and perfect farming is equaled in the cellar, where winemaking is slow and unobtrusive. Fermentations are spontaneous and made in French wood, lasting from a week to many months, depending on the plot.

Image Producer PRODUCT Description Country / Region

DB4422-21
Biodynamic
Domaine Belargus Anjou Blanc "Anjou Noir" Magnums
2021
Chenin Blanc
6/1.5L Pure Chenin Blanc from mostly schist terroir (plus some pudding stone) in the village of Siant Lambert du Lattay. This is the only “...
France

DB3759-19
Biodynamic
WA:96 WS:93
Domaine Belargus Anjou Blanc "Roueres"
2019
Chenin Blanc
Pure Chenin Blanc from one of the three original decreed parcels of the Quarts de Chaume, Rouères. This parcel is southeast-facing and just...
France

DB3675-20
Biodynamic
Domaine Belargus Anjou Blanc "Ronceray"
2020
Chenin Blanc
ALSO AVAILABLE IN 3/1.5L Pure Chenin Blanc from the ensemble of the property’s holdings in the Grand Cru of Quarts de Chaume, the terroir...
France

DB4423-20
Biodynamic
DE:97
Domaine Belargus Anjou Blanc "Quarts"
2020
Chenin Blanc
Les Quarts is the original plot that gave its name to the Quarts-de-Chaume appellation. The Quarts-de- Chaume terroir—a sunny, south-facing...
France

DB3675-21
Biodynamic
Domaine Belargus Anjou Blanc "Ronceray"
2021
Chenin Blanc
ALSO AVAILABLE IN 6/1.5L Pure Chenin Blanc from the ensemble of the property’s holdings in the Grand Cru of Quarts de Chaume, the terroir...
France

DB4423-19
Biodynamic
WA:98
Domaine Belargus Anjou Blanc "Quarts"
2019
Chenin Blanc
Les Quarts is the original plot that gave its name to the Quarts-de-Chaume appellation. The Quarts-de- Chaume terroir—a sunny, south-facing...
France

DB4491-19
Biodynamic
DE:91
Domaine Belargus Anjou Blanc "Bonnes Blanches"
2019
Chenin Blanc
ALSO AVAILABLE IN 3/1.5L Anjou insiders might recognize Bonnes Blanches as one of the famed crus of the Layon valley from the work of Jo...
France

DB4438-19
Biodynamic
Domaine Belargus Anjou Blanc "Veau"
2019
Chenin Blanc
Le Veau is the western and southwestern-facing lieu-dit of Quarts de Chaume, where thin, sandy topsoils cover an outcropping of schist...
France

DB3677-20
Biodynamic
WS:94
Domaine Belargus Anjou Blanc "Treilles"
2020
Chenin Blanc
Pure Chenin Blanc from the 2.72 hectare monopole of the Coteau des Treilles. The “Côte-Rôtie” of the Loire was abandoned after WWII because...
France

DB4394-22
Biodynamic
Domaine Belargus Savennières "Gaudrets"
2022
Chenin Blanc
ALSO AVAILABLE IN 3/1.5L Gaudrets comes from several southeastern-facing parcels totaling 1.85-hectare, all planted on a plateau of black...
France

DB5237-20
Biodynamic
WA:93
Domaine Belargus Savennières "Ruchères"
2020
Chenin Blanc
ALSO AVAILABLE IN 3/1.5L The "Clos des Ruchères" Monopole is at the base of Roche-aux-Moines, on a hillside of rare purple schist. The wine...
France

DB4958-22
Biodynamic
DE:92
Domaine Belargus Coteaux du Layon
2022
Chenin Blanc
Pure late-harvest Chenin Blanc from south-facing parcels bordering the Layon river. Harvested slightly earlier than most in the region to...
France

DB3760-21
Biodynamic
Domaine Belargus Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru "Quarts"
2021
Chenin Blanc
Les Quarts is the original plot that gave its name to the Quarts-de-Chaume appellation. The Quarts-de- Chaume terroir—a sunny, south-facing...
France