Weingut Jürgen Leiner is a great example of the new generation of wine estates pushing the boundaries of ecologically minded, terroir-driven winemaking in the Rheinland after decades of technocratic efforts in pursuit of high yields and ripeness. Located in the Kalmit nature preserve in the southern Pfalz, at the edge of the Pfalzerwald (Pfalz forest) about thirty minutes’ drive north of the Alsatian border, the Leiner estate produces only a modest 120,000 bottles of Riesling and Burgundian varieties. They are Demeter-certified biodynamic; members of Slow Food; and most excitingly, recent inductees into Respekt, the exclusive and influential consortium of biodynamic winemakers in Germany, Austria and Northern Italy. 

Sven Leiner explains:  "We know from years of personal experience and observation that the biologically dynamic farming method addresses all the right issues and fosters a harmonious interrelationship of the various parts of the ecosystem. Soil, as we understand it, is a living organism that we aim to revitalise by applying our own compost, organic teas and natural preparations. Our vines respond with healthy and balanced growth. Plant diversity has come to play a crucial role in the fertility of our vineyard, as it not only provides essential nutrients to our vines, but exerts a stabilising effect on the soil life. In fact, it takes a species-rich soil ecosystem, including bacteria as well as beneficial fungal mycelia, earthworms and a variety of insects, to ensure that an efficient nutrient cycle is in place. We ‘intervene’ simply to keep this natural process going. A wide array of plant life also cuts down significantly on the use of natural fertilisers. As passionate advocates of an ecologically sensitive approach to vineyard management, we have grown our vines using biodynamic practices since 2005. Our firm belief in biodynamic viticulture earned us Demeter Biodynamic certification in 2011 without a transition period."

The soils at Leiner are a complicated geology, generally loess and loam mixed with limestone, but there is a distinct terroir of colored sandstone (bundsandstein) on the Pinot site and another special soil in the Riesling vineyards with an awesome German name: landschneckenkalk, or literally “land snail chalk.” Sven ferments his wines with natural yeasts, and experiments with longer lees and skin contact. The Rieslings imported by Bowler are vinified in steel, and the Spätburgunder "Handwerk" is aged 9 months in large fuder. The wines are “natural” in soul, but also perfectly clean and pure. Every label has a different insect from the vineyards on the label, a celebration of the life found among the vines. The Rieslings possess a riveting dynamic energy and lip-smacking fruit. The Spätburgunders, which clearly reflect the ambient warmth of the southern Pfalz, are among the freshest, most enticingly ripe and delightful Pinot Noirs in our collection.