"A deep golden-orange color, the 2016 Altogrado reminds me more of a dry Sherry than a wine, with notes of hazelnut and toffee further complicated by hints of almond liqueur and cocoa powder. This is grounded in feel, with soft textures that envelop the palate with notes of baked apple and pear as a tinge of gingery spice amasses toward the close. The 2016 finishes with dramatic length and potency yet remains fresh, leaving behind a confectionery air without being sweet. Hints of vanilla custard linger on. The Altogrado is sourced from Grillo vines planted in 1977 in the limestone and clay soils of Contrada Abbadessa. It’s an unabashedly oxidative style, having matured for a total of seven years in chestnut casks, with five of those years spent exposed to oxygen. It’s thrilling to taste, but it won’t be for everyone."