92 points
"The new release of Hugues Godmé’s “les Terres d’Unions” non-vintage Extra Brut is from the base year of 2019 and was disgorged in January of 2023. Fully fifty percent of the cuvée is made up of reserve wines from 2018 and 2017. It is made from a cépages of one-third each of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier and was finished non-dosé. The wine delivers a refined 123 aromatic constellation of white peach, apple, brioche, chalky minerality, a touch of vanillin oak and a gentle topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is brisk, full-bodied, focused and complex, with lovely mineral drive, elegant mousse, a serious spine of acidity and a long, precise and very nicely balanced finish. To my palate, this will need just a bit of cellaring time to further soften up its acids, as there is no buffering dosage. For fans of Brut Nature, this will, no doubt, already be flat out delicious!
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View From the Cellar
Issue#113