Jacqueline Delaunay makes this superb Muscadet from five hectares of 20-year-old Melon Blanc vines grown on stony gneiss, amphibolite and schist soils. The estate is in organic conversion, using no chemicals or herbicides whatsoever, only grass as a cover crop. Fermentation by ambient yeasts, found in the vineyards and on the cellar walls, takes place underground in special cement tanks lined with glass. The wine rests on its lees for eight-12 months, with bâtonnage two to three times over winter. This stirring of the lees gives the wine its appellation’s signature freshness, creaminess, and elegance.