Contrada Salandra

  • Campi Flegrei, Campania, Italy
Contrada Salandra
  • "Readers would do well to commit Contrada Salandra’s name to memory as this estate makes the best Falanghina wine in Italy, and arguably the best wine from Piedirosso as well. The estate of Giuseppe Fortunato, originally an engineer, and his wife Sandra is located in the Campi Flegrei DOC just north of Naples, where they started out by raising bees and making honey, beeswax and related products……forget all those ridiculous and atypical Falanghina wines that are redolent of pineapple, banana and other tropical fruits. That's not what the grape is about. Contrada Salandra’s version is delicately herbal, brightly mineral and very fresh, with a steely quality that elevates it to the level of a grand vin.” —Ian d’Agata, Vinous, September 2015

Giuseppe Fortunato, an engineer turned farmer, and his wife, Sandra Castaldo, live in Pozzuoli, Campi Flegrei, in the province of Naples, Campania. Their tiny farm— consisting of an apiary and 2 hectares of vines, with another 2.7 hectares that are leased from a relative— is a sanctuary of agricultural peace amidst the urban sprawl of Naples, Italy's third largest city.  The vines were extant when Giuseppe’s father bought the property in 1980. Their vineyards, planted to Falanghina and Piedirosso, are located at between 90 and 200 meters above sea level and are rich in volcanic sand above a base of igneous rock.

The area itself is remarkable; the Campi Flegrei (Phlegraean Fields) DOC is a large volcanic area of craters and thermal springs, all of which are the remains of an immense underwater volcano that had Pozzuoli at its center.  The Romans believed this area to be the mythological home of the Roman god of fire, Vulcan. Even now, one can visit the Solfatara crater, with its active fumaroles. Because phylloxera could never embed itself in the sandy volcanic soils of the Campi Flegrei, Contrada Salandra’s vines are ungrafted, piede franco, on their own roots.

Practicing viticulture and beekeeping is an act of resistance in these parts, where the tiny vineyards must compete with real estate developers.  Giuseppe does his best to maintain biological diversity in these beautiful organic vineyards that overlook the sea, which is a mere 2km as the crow flies.  Contrada Salandra practices cover cropping and, in an effort to reduce copper and sulfur use, they use other natural products such as algae, and essential oils of stinging nettles, citrus, and horse chestnut.

The wines are released much later than most of their neighbors, undergoing extended time in elevage both in tank and in the bottle.

For a nice video on Contrada Salandra and a few more words of enthusiasm (in Italian), click here.

Image Producer PRODUCT Description Country / Region

DB1820-20
Organic
Contrada Salandra Falanghina Campi Flegrei
2020
Falanghina
From two parcels, Coste di Cuma (planted 1975, 90m asl, 80% sand, exposure NE) and Monte Sant'Angelo (planted in 2010, 200m asl, 74% sand,...
Italy

DB1822-20
Organic
Contrada Salandra Piedirosso Campi Flegrei
2020
Piedirosso
Contrada Salandra’s Piedirosso explores what is possible with this grape from this appellation. Composed of 95% Piedirosso and 5% co-...
Italy