Hungary’s legendary Tokaji has a long and distinguished history. Botrytis Cinerea, the so-called noble rot, was recognized in the northeastern region of Hungary in 1650. Its effect was dramatic.

“By the 18th century, this extraordinary wine was known to the French court, and was subsequently introduced to the Russian imperial court by the Hapsburgs. Only Constantia from the Cape of Good Hope rivaled Tokay as ‘the wine of kings and the king of wines’ during this period of sweet wine worship, with Tokay Essencia regarded as an all-purpose restorative.” - Jancis Robinson, Oxford Companion to Wine.

Eventually, Tokaji’s esteem crumbled during the communist regime so there was little known about this region even with its rich, early history. However, skilled and savvy winemakers began to make their way over to explore and understand the region's potential.

One of the first was Bodegas Vega Sicilia, which in 1993 acquired one of Tokay’s most highly-regarded properties, Oremus. The winery has 115 hectares of “first growth” vineyards, plus several kilometers and levels of underground cellars hand cut into volcanic rock. They are close enough to the Bodrog River to benefit from the particular climatic conditions that generate noble rot. Wines have been aging there under perfect conditions since the 12th century, in locally made, 136-liter Gonci and 220-liter Szerednyei oak casks.

The vineyards at Oremus are mostly on hillsides that rise steeply above the village of Tolcsva in the heart of the Tokaj-Hegyalja appellation. All the Oremus vineyards are classified ‘First Growth’, according to the historic Szirmay classification of 1803. The cellars themselves are found under the village Tolcsva, in a labyrinth of hand-hewn cellars dating back to the 12th century.

The wines are made by Tokaj Master Andras Backsos, from the traditional varieties: spicy Furmint, floral Hárslevelü, honeyed Zéta and fruity Muskat Lunel. The process itself is unique: fifty-pound puttonyos (tubs) of juice—paste, really—from botrytis-affected (aszú) grapes, individually picked, are added to 136-liter Gonci casks of regular fermenting must. After a 24-hour maceration, the mixture is pressed, and then aged in oak for as long as ten years.

Oro de Coyame Sotol is produced using Dasylirion wheeleri from Aldama, Chihuahua. Maestro Sotolero Gerardo Ruelas. Ruelas is one of the few heritage sotoleros in Chihuahua, carrying on a tradition going back three generations in his family.

The sotol plant, known informally as the desert spoon, was harvested to create a unique spirit that was popular during U.S. Prohibition. After legal alcohol production returned stateside, however, sotol’s popularity dropped off.

Sotol is a distilled spirit of Mexican origin sourced from the family of Asparagaceae; the genus Dasylirion and several species, most commonly: Dasylirion wheeleri, (commonly known as Desert Spoon or, in Spanish, sotol, sereque, cucharilla, or palmilla), a plant that grows in the Chihuahua desert of northern Mexico, New Mexico, Arizona, and west and central Texas.

Sotol liquor is a Mexican drink that is known as the state spirit of Chihuahua, Durango and Coahuila. Sotol has its own appellation of origin since 2002, and may be produced only in Chihuahua, Coahuila and Durango.

The Chihuahuan indigenous people, the Rarámuri, fermented sotol juice into a beer-like alcoholic beverage as early as 800 years ago. In the 16th century, Spanish colonists introduced European distillation techniques to produce a spirit.

The Desert Spoon takes approximately 15 years to mature and yields only one bottle of sotol per plant. It typically grows on rocky slopes in the Chihuahuan desert grassland between 3,000 and 6,500 feet above sea level. Unlike agave, which flowers only once in its lifetime, sotols produce a flower stalk every few years. Once the plant matures, it is harvested like agave plants. The outer leaves are removed to reveal the center core, which is taken back to the distillery. The core can then be cooked and/or steamed, shredded, fermented, and distilled.

They’re flowering succulent plants in the asparagus family, with long, thin, spiny leaves that make the plant overall look like a spiny sea urchin. Varieties of sotol grow throughout Northern Mexico, commonly found in the deserts of Chihuahua or forests of Oaxaca, but the range of wild sotol plants also creeps into the U.S. in Arizona, New Mexico and Texas. As a result, sotol is potentially both a Mexican and American spirit, though the tradition of sotol production in Mexico goes back much farther into the past.

Thank you to importer Louis/Dressner for this producer profile: 

(Click here for more on Oupia on Louis/Dressner's website)

Everyone talks about the new quality of wines from the Languedoc. For us, this doesn't mean the ubiquitous varietal bottlings from irrigated flat vineyards but the wonderful wines coming from the best hillside vineyard sites in AOCs like Minervois, Corbières and Coteaux-du-Languedoc. The Château d'Oupia is one of the best.

André Iché inherited an impressive 13th century castle and a large estate in the barren Minervois region. Iché was never a member of his village coop, tended his very old vines and made his wines but sold everything in bulk to local négociants. One day, a Burgundian winemaker happened to be in Oupia, tasted Iché's wines, and was so enthused that he convinced Iché to bottle and market his production.

André expanded his vineyard holdings and started vinifying several cuvées of Minervois of his best grapes, the "Cuvée des Barons" and "Nobilis", aged in new oak barrels. He rebuilt a cellar, and, after much deliberation,  bought and cleaned up some overgrown and steep terraces that had been abandoned since the late 19th century.

The "Minervois Tradition" is 50% Carignan (from vineyards up to 100 years old), 40% Syrah and 10% Grenache. It is aromatic, full and densely colored, with a long finish of dark fruits. The wine is elegant and balanced — it is both enjoyable to drink young and can age 5-7 years. "Cuvée des Barons" and "Nobilis" are 60% Syrah and 40% Carignan, from a selection of old vines in the best plots, and are aged in Bordeaux barriques for 20 months. They are slower to evolve than the "Tradition" and exhibit more elegance and restraint, but similar dark berries and spicy aromas.

Robert Parker has consistently praised this estate and rated the wine a "best buy." He wrote: "Château d'Oupia has produced the ideal bistro wine. Dark, ruby-colored, the wine is wonderfully clean and pure, with an exuberant personality, and gobs of rich, peppery, red and black fruit...Bravo to proprietor André Iché!"

André passed away in late 2007. His daugher, Marie-Pierre, currently runs the estate with the help of Fabrice Lopez and many old timers who know the land like the back of their hands.

Beaujolais winemaker, Marine Descombe, purchased this small estate in the village of Beine in 2017.  Passy Le Clou is an old family winery, formerly owned by respected Chablis winemaker Gérard Patrice. Having no children to pass it on to, he sold to Marine, who is deeply invested in preserving the history and the land of this domaine. She follows strict environmental guidelines to preserve the health of the soil and wildlife. Soils are tilled to avoid using herbicides by improving their aeration, soil structure, and water conservation. Natural hedges stimulate biodiversity, and only natural fertilizers and cover crops are used. An artificial lake helps moderate the climate and protect against the severe frosts of this northerly region.

Passy Le Clou’s 30 hectares are spread over 21 individual plots, which Marine vinifies separately (with a small team of just 7 people) to showcase the individual expression of the terroir. The winery itself is modern, allowing precise winemaking with a light and delicate touch.