"The 2021 Coz’s Castelão from António Marques-da-Cruz and Tiago Teles is one of their newer vineyards, as these Castelão vines were planted only eight years ago, in a vineyard just north of Lisbon. The wine is fermented with native yeasts and raised in old Burgundy barrels for just under one year prior to bottling. The 2021 tips the scales at a svelte 12.5 percent alcohol and offers up a complex bouquet of sweet dark berries, cigar wrapper, a beautiful base of soil, a touch of sweet botanicals, coffee bean and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is medium-full, tangy and very transparent in personality, with a good core, tangy acids, fine focus, modest tannins and lovely length and grip on the complex finish. This wine has the weight of good Cru Beaujolais and the lovely complexity of the Castelão grape. A fine bottle. 2023-2045."