"I had not tasted a bottle of the 2009 Clos des Billards “Réserve Caveau” since January of 2012 and was delighted to have a chance to cross paths with another bottle in preparation for this report. As readers may recall, this wine is fermented with one-third of the stems and hails from a section of old vines in the vineyard that traditionally produce the most structured and long-lived wine, with the Barbet family holding it back for at least five years in their cellar prior to release. At age six the wine is starting to develop some secondary layers of complexity, wafting from the glass in a deep, fairly black fruity nose (particularly for St. Amour) that delivers a complex blend of black cherries, dark berries, espresso, autumnal soil tones, a bit of roasted venison, walnuts, just a whisper of fresh herbs and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite complex, with a sappy core of black fruit, superb soil signature, tangy acids, still a bit of tannin and a very long, focused and modestly chewy finish. This is a dynamite bottle of black fruity St. Amour that is now entering its plateau of maturity, but should cruise along at this very high level for at least fifteen years or more. Great juice. 2015-2030+."
, Issue #57, May-June 2015