Oliver Haag has taken over handily from the redoubtable Wilhelm, his father (who continues to consult). The line of achievement here at one of Germany’s best addresses remains unbroken. The family has made wine in the famed Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr since 1605—indeed, they co-planted it. At present, the 13ha estate owns the largest and best portion of the vineyard, as well as the best parcel of the Brauneberger Juffer, which surrounds the Sonnenuhr from both sides and above. The impossibly steep vineyards with grades up to 73% are planted on slate rock, and are among the most difficult vineyard sites in the world to cultivate. Using traditional cellar techniques and careful, selective harvesting, Haag produces wines of power, elegance, and longevity, with a thumping slate character that ultimately serves as the benchmark for the entire Mosel.
Tasting Notes: Smoky, slate-filled aromas, followed by lime, peach and a hint of orange flavors. It’s elegant, light-bodied and harmonious, with a lively structure and languid finish. Drink now through 2028. 200 cases imported.
—Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator
Lovely aromas of pineapple, peach, nutmeg and vanilla. The luscious papaya fruit is carried by an elegant framework of acids and slate. Classy, concentrated wine with a long, vibrant finish featuring a note of toasted hazelnut. One of the finest spatleses of the vintage, this is destined to be long-lived, even if it does not have quite the exuberant delicacy of the even better #14 spatlese.
—Joel B. Payne, International Wine Cellar