Oliver Haag has taken over handily from the redoubtable Wilhelm, his father (who continues to consult). The line of achievement here at one of Germany’s best addresses remains unbroken. The family has made wine in the famed Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr since 1605—indeed, they co-planted it. At present, the 13ha estate owns the largest and best portion of the vineyard, as well as the best parcel of the Brauneberger Juffer, which surrounds the Sonnenuhr from both sides and above. The impossibly steep vineyards with grades up to 73% are planted on slate rock, and are among the most difficult vineyard sites in the world to cultivate. Using traditional cellar techniques and careful, selective harvesting, Haag produces wines of power, elegance, and longevity, with a thumping slate character that ultimately serves as the benchmark for the entire Mosel.