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When our friends at Vintage ’59 Imports told us they were “dipping their toes” into Italy, we were intrigued, considering the strength of the wines they import from other regions of the world. They subsequently brought us the wines of Giuseppe Nada, a small family-run estate in the village of Treiso in Barbaresco. In tasting these wines, we found that there was not much to think about: they had that special something: an undeniable, transparent grace in the glass. In the wine world, this was as close to a home run as you can get.
Roy Cloud, of Vintage ’59, tells the story best: “On March 27, 1900, a forefather of Giuseppe Nada sealed a deal on a vineyard, orchard, and a small house on a steep hillside in the commune of Treiso. The vineyard was in the cru of Casot, and that forefather bought the parcel from a fellow by the name of Gaja.
In 1964 Giuseppe’s father, Antonio, made the risky decision to begin to estate-bottle a part of his production, requiring him to invest in a small winery (he put it in the basement of that house on the Casot hillside). It was a prescient move: in 1966 the DOC of Barbaresco, named after one of the three villages in the appellation, became established.
In 1968 Antonio moved to the other side of the ridge, but closer to the top so he had a better view. Probably more importantly, the location made it much easier to receive grapes from either side of the hill. He built a new basement winery and put his house on top. Today, Giuseppe and his wife Nella live here, and up against the lower wall of the house is their first row of vines in the cru of Marcarini.
At midpoint, Marcarini stands at 325 meters; Casot at 315 (low by Treiso’s standards), and the two occupy flanking positions on the same ridge coming down off the spine of Treiso. The Nada holdings in the two constitute six hectares (almost 15 acres), which is the totality of vines owned by this industrious family. These days, Giuseppe and Nella stay fit maintaining the vineyards where they do practically all of the work, while their daughter Barbara manages the office and their enologist son Enrico oversees the wine production down in the cellar....Once Enrico came on board, his keen intelligence and passionate direction allowed the family to go organic in the vineyards in 2014. They received initial certification in 2017, while the white vineyards will be certified in 2018 and 2019. In the cellar, Enrico now lets all of the red wines ferment spontaneously....
The three towns of what is now a DOCG are Treiso, Neive, and Barbaresco. They form a triangle: Barbaresco in the west, Neive in the east, and Treiso—the smallest in acreage and highest in elevation—in the south. Innately, Barbaresco and Treiso lean toward elegance while Neive can pack more power and structure, but the differences can be readily rendered mute by the hand of man. It is worth noting, however, that if it snows, it snows first in Treiso, and Treiso’s altitudes give it the widest diurnal swings.”
We are fortunate and excited to add Giuseppe Nada’s wines to our Italian portfolio.