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Josef Ehmoser and his wife, Martina, are crafting world-class wines in the Wagram, a region known for its deep loess soils that lie on a bedrock of marine sediment with clay up to twelve meters below the surface. Josef took over the 15 hectare winery from his father in 1996. The philosophy of the Ehmosers is to respect nature in the vineyards and also in the winery, highlighting the personality of each wine without forcing it on a prescribed path. They do not spray herbicides nor pesticides. They do practice minimum treatments for mildew. They follow the weather and weather forecast very closely and determine their actions based on the weather – if it is hot and dry like 2015 for many weeks, then treatments against mildew are not necessary. They do not spray against cochylis and eudemis moths, they use sexual confusion dispensers with pheromones – the male cannot find the female because of the pheromone. They do not drive through the vineyards often with the tractor to keep the ground and soil loose and to minimize compaction.
They grow grass in the vineyards and keep it longer if it is raining a lot, to have competition for water and taking water from the vines. If it is too dry, they cut the grass short, giving enough water to the vines. They do not irrigate the vines. At the winery, they have solar panels for heating and warm water. There is no need to heat or cool the tank rooms in the cellar as they are partially underground eight meters in the cool loess soil. At harvest, the grapes are harvested by hand (which is not required in the Wagram).
Loess in this area has a 30% limestone content and is great for Gruner Veltliner and Weissburgunder. The most prized wine of the Ehmoser's is the Gruner Veltliner Hohenberg from their oldest parcel of 45-years, it's a 340-meter high vineyard with deep loess soil. The wines are mostly fermented and aged in stainless steel, with the exception of one part of the Hohenberg, which is aged in a concrete egg. Josef normally keeps the wines on the lees until they are bottled. The Ehmoser wines show great purity of fruit and distinctly express the famous loess soil.